Here it is
Outdoor light near entry door.
Floyd4949
I use this one and am very happy with it.
Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air
pulsarjab
How old are the air bags? We had same issue, a year ago, and discovered bags had lots of cracks. We replaced all bags on our 2000 Diplomat.
Smart Wheel Dead
MHRookie
It’s been awhile since I called for a quote but, if you call your local Freightliner, Western Star, or Thomas bus parts departments with the 1900043 part number they can quote it.
2003 Monaco Dynasty power loss in engine
Dr4Film
Normally, the very first thing to try is changing your fuel filters. They can clog up for a variety of reasons.
For an example, we drove from my brothers farm in Dansville NY to Cortland NY to visit cousins. Did NOT add any fuel to the tank. Parked the coach at the local campground. Then two days later broke camp to head to the Adirondacks. Left the campground but after driving not that far I had very little to no boost. Stopped, turned off the engine and restarted, all OK but then not far down the road the same situation. That's when I turned around and went back to the campground to unhook. I had to run to the local Napa store as I only had one of the two fuel filters on board. Got back to the coach and luckily right next door was a truck shop, drove over there to see if they would change out the filters for me. Had to wait an hour or so but once done I was back on the road with FULL boost. No idea why the filters were clogged but they were.
Always carry extra fuel filters as you never know WHEN you may need them.
If your tank is really messed up you may need a bunch of them or use some of the recommended products talked about on this site to remedy the situation. In severe cases you may even have to have the fuel in the tank professionally polished.
Need fuel filter for 95-97 Dynasty
Dr4Film
10 hours ago, Gary Petersen said:
Regarding the original post:
Is there some reason that you don't want to replace the Racor S3230P with another Racor?
I see that my Sig uses this same filter element which, I see is available online at the RacorStore for $35.11
Should I be considering different replacement brand?
@Gary PetersenWhat for? My previous Windsor came with the Racor S320T and it still uses the same filter to this day. I made sure the shop never disposed of the plastic bowl and just replaced the filter element plus cleaned out the bowl.
The Racor filters are great filters!
2003 Monaco Dynasty power loss in engine
jacwjames
X2 on changing fuel filters as the first step and see if that solves the problem.
The black pieces may be contamination due to algae. When I had it the stuff was black slimy strings that almost completely clogged my primary filter. But I have heard of harder black chunks.
Since then I use both Biobor, which kills the algae, and Startron, which is an enzyme that breaks down the dead algae so it is consumed in the engine. Never had another problem.
Not sure what engine you have, if it is the ISC series there is a potential problem with the lift/transfer pump that runs for ~30 seconds to prime the system. The lift pump will start leaking but when it shuts off the CAPS injector pump has the potential to suck air which can eventually cause the injector pump to fail >>> $$$$$
My lift pump started to leak so a long term fix is to bypass and install a different lift pump. I installed a FASS pump in 2021, which has 2 filters on it and cycles ~+85% of the fuel pumped back to tank, so while driving it will continually polish the fuel. A big benefit to provide clean fuel to the engine. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed on the secondary filter so I know how much pressure is at the injector pump, usually 16psi.
Battery Cutoff Switch
Dr4Film
@CraggarThose must be good switches as that's what is used on my 06 Dynasty. My previous 02 Windsor has the Guest Switches which are also very good. Only had to replace one in the coaches 23 years of its life so far.
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
StellaTariche
Ok, so I am (1) in the same boat (ok, land yacht ) as all of us, and (2) a physics junkie with two sons and a nephew who are all recent electrical engineer physics junkies. I also have a staff of 12 EEs and MEs who all jumped in to this discussion. My neighbor who is also a Lt. Col and aeronautical engineer who teaches at the USAFA also chimed in. He has a phD in laminar flow dynamics and access to a Mach 6 wind tunnel at Purdue University if we want to try this on a scale model.
Two ideas:
(1) Create an artificial air deflector out of moving air. Aim it at the correct (calculated) constantly changing position and angle and deflect any and all bugs, rain, and potentially small rocks. Examples of this working are the pointy nose-cones on the inlets of the SR-71 blackbird. Same principle as the air deflector on pickup truck, Formula One cars and front motor class 8 trucks.
Note that my main office is (literally) on Kelly Johnson Blvd in Colorado Springs. Kelly Johnson and his team designed the SR-71.
Pros: it will work on our 40 ton loaf of bread shaped toys
Cons: biiiiiig fans needed (or we have to be driving about 175mph) for it to create a wind “shock wave” that will clear the top of the rig windshield. Might be a bit noisy 🙂
The guys shared the math on bar napkins (Note: why yes. Yes alcohol was involved. You really needed to ask?). It seemed to be kosher.
(2) Lasers on the front. Hear me out…..
At 70 mph, they can easily track hundreds of bugs with an off the shelf Nvidia graphics card, some machine vision, and a couple sensors (high frame rate cameras) and zap them. We do it already (Lead Free Design, my company) when sorting items to be recycled moving on a quickly moving treadmill. We track each fast moving piece of unknown material with cameras in 3 dimensions, very quickly zap each piece of material several times with a special laser called LIBS (Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy), looks at the returned “fingerprint” reflected by the laser, based on the spectrum (Ai machine learning) decide what substances are in the material and which direction that piece needs to be heading, blast it with a tightly controlled column of air, and it ends up in the correct recycle material path/bin. In use this exact system at our partner’s labs in the EU (EARN - European Advanced Recycling Network).
Pros: Works really well for plastics, metals, and fingers. Knows (or can be taught) the difference between your index finger, a protected species of bird, and a giant Florida June bug.
Cons: DOT might want to have a say in this contraption. Expensive because ….. engineers.
- John
More realistically, there is an external clear conformal film (like window tint, but applied to the outside and perfectly clear) that can be applied to the outside of the windshield. It blocks heat, protects against rock chips, bug juice rinses off with ease. lasts about 3 years. Wipers don’t scratch it. Couple of hundred bucks. Works best on new windshields.
31C battery
georgecederholm
10 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
My '08 Scepter came equipped with a pair of 950CCA group 31's!
Our 2005 Exec with the Detroit option also came with two Group 31C 950 CCA batteries. First replacement was with 900 CCA versions, as 950s seemed in short supply at that point. Later on, after seeing some posts from others with similar setups, and even easier to lift that the originals.
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
Garage Monster
The comment about washing windshields only vertically does not apply to your RV.
The windscreens on planes and helicopters are plastic and do scratch. The windshield on your RV is glass and does not care how you wash it. It you were right, a car wash would have made all cars undriveable by now.
Yes, I do have a pilots license.
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
StellaTariche
Direction in which you wash it depends on if you want vertical bug streaks or horizontal bug streaks. The wipers will make them all semicircular almost immediately, so it is purely a appearance preference 🙂
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
georgecederholm
I bought a windshield brush/squeege on Amazon and attached it to a wooden broomstick. Looks just like the ones at any truck stop, except I added a stainless screw to hold the head from turning when I apply a little extra torsional pressure. I also got a gallon of the Rain-X Windshield Washer fluid that’s supposed to help with bugs. After a driving day, I put a cup of that in a dishpan, add a little hot water from the faucet in the wet bay, and have at the job before the buggers dry on. Seems to work fairly well, although I’m probably due to get the ladder and razor blade to scrape all the stubborn bits off. I do periodically use the actual Rain-X product but probably not as often as I should.
I met a guy once who was using a spray bottle to wet the windshield before scrubbing and scraping. He said he was using Hydrogen Peroxide to soften any “organic material” and swore by that technique. I haven’t tried that yet.
We are currently 14 days out of Phoenix (Peoria), traveling west to I-5 then north to Eugene (work done at Coach Glass), and now headed east to Connecticut for the summer. In Billings now, Box Elder next, and expect to be at the kids’ place by Memorial Day. Bugs have been very active since we went through the Central Valley. And we haven’t even gotten to Cicada territory yet! “Honey, where do we keep that bottle of Peroxide”? 😂
31C battery
Tom Cherry
11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
My '08 Scepter came equipped with a pair of 950CCA group 31's!
BEN.... You are a GENIUS. OK...a bit over the top. BUT, you have just solved the great MYSTERY of Batteries. MONACO, GOD FORBID, CHEATED on my Camelot. I DID come with the 750's. I and others thought it was just how Monaco did it to "reduce costs".
YES....they actually did that...as in substituted the 750's....maybe they were OUT of 950's. BUT, sure enough...my manual and the print say. THAT BIG BOY NEEDS 950's...
Seriously, now I know....in the early builds of my Camelot or maybe I just got a FREAK....or a GOOF....they put in 750's..
Here, for everyone's information is the "RELEASED FOR MY 2009" Electrical Specs. THIS covers many models including the Camelots. The Dynasty and above were all 950 CCA.
NOW....for comments about 750's will work fine. NOTICE the requirement for the Starter. ALL are 1500 CCA. So, Monaco's logic and mine and also my experience...you do NOT put in the Minimum rating...you oversize...not DOUBLE...so I was SUPPOSED to have 950's.
Thanks again for information that can be verified rather than guessed at. I assumed, as many do...that mine was built to the drawings... OMG...NO.
I can also tell you that Monaco, even in the early 2009 builds were running out of things. They put in the WRONG Tank Monitoring harness on a friend's 2009 Camelot and sent him the print of what he should have had and the Specs on the MISSING diodes and told him to INSTALL them and fix his harness. This was AFTER Navistar bought them...so there was NO WARRANTY on the MONACO OWNED and BUILT Coaches....but they would tell you what was wrong... LOL>
THANKS...
Battery Electrical Specs.pdf
Ivylog
Not what I expected and it shows RS has it in stock for $172 BUT it’s only an idiot proofing device…if you hold the centering button down too long (10+ seconds) it won’t supply 12V that long… automatically stops supplying power. I’d just bypass it and hook the 12V from the button straight to the +wire going to the true center… use a 15A fuse as the connector. For $172, I can remember to only hold the button down briefly.
Battery Cutoff Switch
Tom Cherry
16 hours ago, Craggar said:
OK...we are on the SAME PAGE. It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW. We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"
NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.
There were TWO styles of Switches. One is the SIMPLE. It has nothing but TWO STUDS. OK...my GS can handle that concept.
BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch. There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff". Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK. Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE. They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off. AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.
Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG....NOW... for the Windsor Owners.. That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.
THE MORAL. Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch. if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch. IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires. OTHERWISE...issues.
BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.
BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack. In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM. The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.
That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....
Let us see your handiwork...
Roof maintenance 2008 Diplomat
Patricia Ferrara
4 hours ago, throgmartin said:
I use a multi tool with a scraper blade attachment. This makes fast work of getting the old caulking up. Once it is up, go back and clean the area with denatured alcohol. If there are any gaps you can lay a thin bead of Dicor down to fill them. Allow the dicor to tack up, then put down the eternabond tape.
I am sorry but I have never seen a youtube video on caulking. It is a very straight forward process.
Thanks Chris!
I will go up & measure how many linear feet of seams that I have, and then order the eternabond tape. I guess that I’ll redo most if not all of the seams, as the majority look like they have just been resealed several times over the years, so starting fresh sounds like the way to go. Just hoping that I do everything right, as I will never hear the end if it from DH if we end up with a leak lol!
Thank you to everyone for your input and help! I think that now I have a pretty good idea of how to get this done correctly… just need some cooperative weather so I can take my time and end up with a decent result (and no leaks!). Fingers crossed!🤞
Roof maintenance 2008 Diplomat
Tom Cherry
15 hours ago, 96 EVO said:
No, it hasn't!
Scotty's explanation dealt with not painting over the lap sealant. That makes perfect sense!
My question was, and still is.... why rolling on the diagonal?
Hopefully Chris will read this thread and reply.
The advice I received from Talin was clean, scuff, paint first (roll paint on diagonally, not front- back or side-side), then reseal seams. The logic was if you paint over the lap sealant and/or Eternabond then ever have to remove the sealant for any reason, you may peel up the edges of the paint. Both the Rustoleum Topside and the Dicor Fiberglass Roof Coating form a relatively thick, pliable coating on the roof, and removing sealant to reseal, replace, etc., would peel up the edges of the paint.
Looks like we read the same text and each of us interpreted if differently. Made sense to me. But, others, as you have, might differ...
Roof maintenance 2008 Diplomat
throgmartin
Patti it is very straight forward. Just remember that whenever you put down eternadond tape you have to roll it with a steel roller. You will do fine.
This is the one to order.
Frank McElroy
A few days ago, I received a call from Cade, an electronics technician, at M&M RV Electronics.
Cade was the person most familiar with the evaluation of the dash switch modules from Brett’s coach. He explained that the information I received when I spoke with Chris last June was not completely accurate.
Cade told me that the circuit boards were removed from all the modules for visual inspection and testing but they likely got mixed up with other circuit boards on their test bench when the modules were reassembled. When the modules were reassembled, the thought was that all slave circuit boards were the same. Yes, visually they look exactly the same but they are software programmed differently. When the boards got mixed up and wrong boards got installed in some of the slave modules returned to Brett.
To correct this error, M&M sent me ALL their dash switch modules and circuit boards they had at their shop. After testing, yes, the missing circuit boards from Brett’s coach were among the other 24 boards they sent. However, Brett’s missing boards did have corrupted software so they wouldn’t work but the slave numbers were readable so I know they very likely came out of Brett’s coach.
Honest mistakes do happen. I’m happy that M&M did the right thing by calling me to explain what happened and they returned the original circuit boards. The other failed extra dash switch modules and boards they sent me, once repaired, will be added to my inventory of working modules and help replace failed modules on other coaches faster.
Going forward M&M is very happy that there is someone out there who can repair these modules. They now know where to refer coach owners for getting Eaton E30 dash switch modules repaired on Kongsberg Chassis multiplex coaches.
Cade, thanks again for taking the initiative in calling me to explain what happened and for sending me your inventory of Eaton E-30 dash switch modules and spare parts/boards.
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
Les Hurdle
Since you mention glass......... I'm sure I'll get detention for this........ just had one side of my windshield replaced by BUSTER 661 810 3551. [Palmdale Lancaster CA area but he will travel]..... he told stories about glass shattering, popping out, he'd seen it all. So far mine is still in place.
Ivylog
Frank, thanks for the above post. I’ve only had one experience with M&M…several years ago I had them backup my Intellitech boards and cpu while they were in Sanford, FL, after several phone calls making the appointment. I didn’t have bad vibes about their abilities or honesty having figured out the Intellitech multiplex system when fixing a friends Monaco with it.
Only recently have I learned you and Paul Whittle can do the same thing with Paul being much closer although I haven’t had any issues that wouldn’t correct by rebooting the system. Again, thanks for all you do even though I don’t have a Kberg coach.
31C battery
Benjamin
I don't have enough or consistent experience with 31T to confirm or deny the difference between the 750 and 950CCA types, especially in any particular application. I would say that RVs typically suffer more abuse from neglect and deep discharge than trucks or other equipment. In my limited experience, it's not uncommon to get ten years out a pair of batteries in a medium duty truck. The difference between 3, 5 or 10 years would be mostly abuse, or random failures.
In the case of those interstate models, the 750 has less reserve capacity as well as CCA, so it could be a lighter battery, and not fewer thicker plates. The heavier duty 750CCA story was told to me in response to a question about poor life (5-7years). I was not a hard sell as I'd heard that before, it was from a battery representative, but still a salesman, so who knows.
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
StellaTariche
I popped mine while learning how not to use the jacks. Yup, expensive lesson.
Venturer
What Ivylog said. As long as the solenoid responds when 12 volts are applied, you have a working Tru-Center. All you did is transfer the engagement timer to your brain.
2003 Monaco Dynasty power loss in engine
Benjamin
I agree, the black chunks possibly came from the fuel line. I'd remove the hose from the tank, if you can get to it. Remove at the fuel separator and blow back toward the tank into a clean bucket, if you find more chunks of rubber there's your answer.
I've heard fuel breakdown products described as fried chicken skin, that's the best way I can describe the harder stuff that fuel makes. The slime is common also, neither should be a problem if you use many full tanks of fuel a year. But with a hundred gallon tank, if you top it off before it goes below 1/2, then you end up with old fuel if you only go a few thousand miles a year.
Battery Cutoff Switch
Craggar
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:
OK...we are on the SAME PAGE. It would be nice, when you replace the switches to post a picture of the OLD in place and the NEW. We did spend a LOT of time with a really funky NO NAME Switch....and there was NO INFORMATION on it and we finally kept looking and found a picture and was able to "locate the manufacturer"
NOW, with your experience...you may KNOW this... OTHERS DO NOT.
There were TWO styles of Switches. One is the SIMPLE. It has nothing but TWO STUDS. OK...my GS can handle that concept.
BUT, there were also, especially on the upper ends...and the Windsor was considered as an UPPER END... a FOUR terminal Switch. There were TWO SMALL lugs...and they were USED to power some "stuff". Many folks have bought the TWO STUD and put them in and then wrote....SOMETHING DON'T WORK. Then, the photos revealed that they (or a Previous Owner) neglected to install the CORRECT ONE. They just left the two "Low Current" terminal wires off. AND THAT WAS NOT GOOD.
Most of the 2005 (GUESS) Dynasty and above had the FOUR wire switches...and, YES, many Owners purchased the TWO wire Blue Seas (the PN was different...but, hey...it FIT) and then wanted to know WHAT WAS WRONG....NOW... for the Windsor Owners.. That is an EXAMPLE...and Monaco changed their minds constantly.
THE MORAL. Verify if you have a FOUR Terminal (Two Studs and Two small contacts) style switch. if you do, try to find the correct 4 terminal switch. IF NOT....either add a replacement ON/Off Toggle or straight wire the two small wires. OTHERWISE...issues.
BUT, if you only have the TWO STUDS....rock on.
BUT... in some issues....which I was afraid here...the switch mounts were an abortion....as in there was ONLY one switch that would work without extensive recabling due to lengths and lack of slack. In one case....there was absolutely NO ROOM. The owner would have had to fabricate or had made a riser to mount on the OLD welded/bolt on bracket and then drilled it to take the NEW (usually Blue Seas) switch....and THEN he could use the cables.
That is the warning....which we see all to often and the reason for the depth of the discussion....
Let us see your handiwork...
I hear you and mine is only the two terminal but that could be from the previous owner who did some funky stuff with the electrical I’ve been learning.
I will probably do this next week and will post a picture but like I said it may be the wrong one in there now.
DavidL
Frank, nice update. Good to hear.
Tom Cherry
19 minutes ago, Ivylog said:
Not what I expected and it shows RS has it in stock for $172 BUT it’s only an idiot proofing device…if you hold the centering button down too long (10+ seconds) it won’t supply 12V that long… automatically stops supplying power. I’d just bypass it and hook the 12V from the button straight to the +wire going to the true center… use a 15A fuse as the connector. For $172, I can remember to only hold the button down briefly.
Blue Ox Trucenter Relay Fix.pdf
Aquahot 100-04S issues. No Hot Water. Thanks
Jetjockey
Get a test box from Louisville or webasto and youcan check all blower burner functions with out replacing anything.:
It is a plug and play and in the long run or short run will save you time and money. Starting to throw parts at aquahot till it works is not my chosen method.
Tom Cherry
Ditto to the above. Frank and I often talk weekly and he alerted me to this post. I knew about the call last week and the update today.
As to the OTHER MPX and the Dynasty and up Intellitec board repairs. M&M does repair them for techs in the field. The pricing, as has GROCERIES (to name one) has gone up a bit. Inflation or otherwise...do NOT know.
BUT Paul Whittle is actually the person now, on the group that is doing most of Intellitec repairs. @pwhittle
Frank is doing the K'Berg. Frank and Paul can BOTH repair any of the Custom Monaco Intellitec boards....so seek out Paul.
Have NO idea what M&M is now charging for a Board Repair. We have a great resource...so get quotes or call Paul and such...then choose whichever one suits your needs and timing. All I will say...Paul and Frank have yet to be stumped and I consider them a bit more of an expert than the various other options....
Glad to hear and understand that this is sorted out now....
YES...we are fortunate to have such resources here and it is the interaction of members and help and such that have helped develop them...
Hydraulic cylinder question
Frank McElroy
Here are a few pages taken out of the HWH Operators manual. Basically all jacks (if the coach has that option) and all slides except the X slides need to be retracted when checking oil level.
In practice, having all slides retracted will be close enough unless you are completely filling the tank which you shouldn't do. Warm oil needs room to expand.
HWH Operators Manual - How to check oil level.pdf
New Bilstien shocks and used air bags
summersjw4
Rich,
I know it’s been a while but do you still have the shocks and air bags for sale?
Need fuel filter for 95-97 Dynasty
Paul Brown Jr
I HAVE A WINN FUEL FILTER SYSTEM AND THE SYSTEM NEEDS TO BE REPLACED.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
BLDanielsJr
Does anyone see any issue with my proposed location for a DC-DC Charger that I need to protect my alternator from my 300ah lithium house battery bank.
If I put it where I have it shown, the chassis battery will be limited to no more than 30amps of charging current as well as the house batteries.
What is not shown is that I also have 1000w of solar that helps charge my house batteries while I am driving.
If you have a better idea as to where the charger should go, please let me know. The Big Boy makes it hard to tie the Charger only to the house batteries since the current can flow both ways through the Big Boy relay.
Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Aquahot 100-04S issues. No Hot Water. Thanks
rockbust
19 hours ago, radioman said:
If the electric status and heating status light are on you should have battery voltage on pins 11 and 12 on JP3 on the LED board. If not you have a bad board.
Correct. My new board just arrived.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
JDCrow
Not sure I did mine correctly, but I ditched the big boy. My understanding was that combining chassis (lead) with house (lithium) wasn’t a good idea.
There is a combiner out, James on YouTube (AZ Expert) did an install with one.
Like I mentioned, I just eliminated the Big Boy. Always have a tow rig to jump if I ever need to
AC Recharge
cbr046
On 5/11/2024 at 9:30 AM, CAT Stephen said:
What is common with diesel pushers is some variation from the standard R134A P/T charts due to the vast lengths of the refrigerant lines between the engine's AC compressor and the dash evaporator.
When I got the RV back from the shop the ambient / static pressure was perfect - 66F and 66 psi on both high and low sides. The compressor had been off for hours. When I engaged the compressor the high and low pressures were low according to the chart - 124 / 19 at 1200 RPM. or very low 103 / 24 at 600 RPM
So I started thinking about this . . . . There's a LOT of volume in those lines, much more than an auto (which almost every website is targeting). Adding more freon (and more and more freon) will get pressures in range but now there's A LOT MORE FREON in the system, which (in my case) was a very bad thing. Expensive, too. I suspect the static or equalized pressure would now be out of range with the corresponding temperature.
But on the other hand . . . . I had just gotten home so the freon in those long lines was probably 5-10F higher (on average front to back) than ambient temp, being up high in the chassis bays and heated by the engine, so that might skew the static charts. Still, "they said" they put in the right amount of freon per a sticker somewhere (52 oz), which I've never run across. They may have added freon by volume and not by pressure.
I haven't had a chance to compare intake and discharge air temps but I was cool enough driving home out of FL yesterday (Max AC, fan on high, blowing on me). Until it "just quits" I'm rolling with it . . . . and when it does quit I'll add just enough.
Thoughts?
- bob
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
timaz996
You can run your DC/DC charger output directly to your House batteries. Then you will put 30amps to the house and what ever your chassis batteries needs from the alternator.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
BLDanielsJr
4 minutes ago, timaz996 said:
You can run your DC/DC charger output directly to your House batteries. Then you will put 30amps to the house and what ever your chassis batteries needs from the alternator.
That would make it in parallel with the Big Boy. Isn't the Big Boy the path of unlimited current being requested by the house batteries?
20 minutes ago, JDCrow said:
Not sure I did mine correctly, but I ditched the big boy. My understanding was that combining chassis (lead) with house (lithium) was a good idea.
There is a combiner out, James on YouTube (AZ Expert) did an install with one.
Like I mentioned, I just eliminated the Big Boy. Always have a tow rig to jump if I ever need to
Am I understanding correctly that your DC-DC charger is wired where the Big Boy used to be and ends up being the only bridge between the chassis and house?
One aspect of the system that would go away is the house helping to maintain the chassis battery when parked.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
Seward G
I made the change to LiFeP batteries two years ago. The motorhome is a gas Monaco Monarch, with a 170 amp alternator. I thought the alternator was about 230 amps and installed a 60 amp DC/DC converter. The converter is fused at both on the alternator (125 amp) and LiFeP battery side (75 amp). I have been concerned about overheating the alternator; no problems so far with about 15,000 miles of travel. Power from the ignition switch turns on and off the converter. A problem early on was that the toad battery, when towing and connected, would supply 12 volts to the ignition circuit, even with we were stopped and the RV engine was off. This kept the converter operating and that quickly discharged the RV chassis battery. This got fixed by adding a diode, then later a relay to the toad charging circuit. The RV has a residential refrigerator and 1,100 watts of installed solar panels. Even with the 60 amps charging when driving (five hours) and the solar panels the house batteries are barely recharged enough for overnight boondocking.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
JDCrow
1 hour ago, BLDanielsJr said:
That would make it in parallel with the Big Boy. Isn't the Big Boy the path of unlimited current being requested by the house batteries?
Am I understanding correctly that your DC-DC charger is wired where the Big Boy used to be and ends up being the only bridge between the chassis and house?
One aspect of the system that would go away is the house helping to maintain the chassis battery when parked.
The dc/dc comes off the positive alternator and goes to the house batteries.
I added a new Victron Multiplus 2 which has 4 amp trickle charger built in to maintain chassis batteries when the coach is plugged in.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
timaz996
"That would make it in paral30 amplel with the Big Boy. Isn't the Big Boy the path of unlimited current being requested by the house batteries?"
The DC/DC is your limiter. it will limit the current from the Alt to a little over 30 amps.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
BLDanielsJr
4 minutes ago, timaz996 said:
The DC/DC is your limiter. it will limit the current from the Alt to a little over 30 amps.
Is your Big Boy still connected?
19 minutes ago, JDCrow said:
I added a new Victron Multiplus 2 which has 4 amp trickle charger built in to maintain chassis batteries when the coach is plugged in.
I have the Multiplus II and while I have not seen the trickle charge connector, it must be there. Do you know if this trickle charge works when the Multiplus is in Inverter mode and not just charging mode when you have shore power or the generator? When I am boondocking, my primary charging is done through solar and the Inverter is inverting. I would want the trickle charge to be present while boondocking.
slide out sheer pins keep shearing off
windsorbill06
I've got 4 electric slides. The issue I'm having in on only 1, the front curb side slide out. It's a lippert slide out. Gears. No cables. Slide goes in and out smoothly, square and no jerking or bouncing. There is no floor rot or damage.
The problem I have is when the slide reaches it's limit (either retracted or extended), the motor will keep running and torque off the sheer bolt. This is the original motor.
Can someone explain how the motor is to know that the slide has reached it's limit ? I'm not aware of any limit switches. Maybe motor senses a amp jump? Maybe slide out circuit board in rear electrical compartment is acting up?
New Bilstien shocks and used air bags
RBRODDER
I do have the shocks.. ended up tossing the airbags.
Roof maintenance 2008 Diplomat
Jim Wallace
On 5/12/2024 at 11:34 AM, Patricia Ferrara said:
Anyone have any thoughts on the Tread Tex anti-slip additive? Boaters that have used it suggest that if it is added, be sure the stir the paint frequently as it can settle to the bottom. We thought it might be a good idea, as it can get a little slick up there. I’ve already had more than my fair share of accidents, and don’t need another one at my age!
I used an anti-slip with the Top Side last year. And yes it was really impossible to distribute in the paint evenly. Didn't make any difference how much I stired it. Home depot would not let me put it in the paint and have it shook up. Not sure it would have helped. It went on unevenly. The paint itself does not create a slick surface, moisture does.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
BLDanielsJr
41 minutes ago, Seward G said:
Even with the 60 amps charging when driving (five hours) and the solar panels the house batteries are barely recharged enough for overnight boondocking.
This seems odd to me. I have roughly the same size solar array and on a reasonably good day I get 3kw+. This ought to be at least twice what a typical fridge needs per day. The solar surplus plus the alternator should be more than enough to recharge a typical battery bank. What is the size of your battery array and what is your typical percentage available when you get up in the morning?
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
Seward G
Clarifying my earlier post, the Monarch has a relay similar to a Big Boy to tie together the chassis and coach systems when the engine is running and when the battery boost switch is pressed. I disabled this relay.
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
JDCrow
30 minutes ago, BLDanielsJr said:
Is your Big Boy still connected?
I have the Multiplus II and while I have not seen the trickle charge connector, it must be there. Do you know if this trickle charge works when the Multiplus is in Inverter mode and not just charging mode when you have shore power or the generator? When I am boondocking, my primary charging is done through solar and the Inverter is inverting. I would want the trickle charge to be present while boondocking.
I do not know off the top of my head.
I found this video, have not watched it yet
New Bilstien shocks and used air bags
summersjw4
As I remember you installed the Source Engineering ride enhancement kit and I’m assuming their trailing arms too? Do you feel like it was worth it? We have a 03 30PBD, around 45,000 miles… ride is OK? But really don’t have a lot of experience with other A class rigs? We’ve owned this one for 2-1/2 years.
Chargerman
Ok . Thanks guys! I’m fine with just wiring direct but help me understand how it works. If you supply power to it momentarily I understand that it will actuate the solenoid thereby engaging the Trucanter but then what happens? How does it stay engaged? How is it released?
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
Seward G
Responding to BLDanielsJr, there are three 200 amp batteries in parallel, for a total of about 7,800 watt-hours. I am puzzled too about the overall charging system not keeping up with use. We have all LED lighting. We use a lot of appliances when boondocking (microwave, hot water kettle for coffee, electric blanket on cold nights, etc.).
Where to connect DC-DC Charger
BLDanielsJr
36 minutes ago, BLDanielsJr said:
Do you know if this trickle charge works when the Multiplus is in Inverter mode and not just charging mode when you have shore power or the generator? When I am boondocking, my primary charging is done through solar and the Inverter is inverting. I would want the trickle charge to be present while boondocking.
I found a discussion on Victron Community regarding the trickle charger and, YES, it does function regardless of the mode of the Multiplus, including OFF.
Looks like I can eliminate the Big Boy, put the DC-DC Charger in its place and wrap the trickle charger back around to maintain the chassis battery. The only big boy function that would not be available is the house assist for the starter motor which should not be a problem if the chassis battery is being maintained and a jumper can tie the banks together if necessary.
10 minutes ago, Seward G said:
Responding to BLDanielsJr, there are three 200 amp batteries in parallel, for a total of about 7,800 watt-hours. I am puzzled too about the overall charging system not keeping up with use. We have all LED lighting. We use a lot of appliances when boondocking (microwave, hot water kettle for coffee, electric blanket on cold nights, etc.).
My rough calculations would be that your solar array on a reasonable day could charge about 30% of your battery bank and five hours at 60amps from your alternator might get 35-40%. That would mean that you should be able to recover during the day as long as you start the day with 35-40% SOC and your consumption through the day is not excessive.
slide out sheer pins keep shearing off
jacwjames
I had this in my files, it discussed the slide limiter and how to adjust. Yours may be different but probably similar as to how to adjust the control module.
Power-Gear-Slide-Out-Manual-Operation-Guide-82-S0220-01.pdf
Venturer
40 minutes ago, Chargerman said:
Ok . Thanks guys! I’m fine with just wiring direct but help me understand how it works. If you supply power to it momentarily I understand that it will actuate the solenoid thereby engaging the Trucanter but then what happens? How does it stay engaged? How is it released?
There is spring tension on both sides of the centering valve inside the tube. When you have to steer into a cross wind you are putting more pressure against one spring. While holding the steering wheel into the cross wind, pushing the button causes the springs to center to the steering position. After centering, you have the assist of a spring to hold the steering wheel position. Sometimes you might have to steer past the position you want, then push the button to create more spring pressure to hold the position. I've never had a time where I had to hold the button more than 3 seconds. When conditions change, just repeat to the new position. All you're doing is resetting the spring pressures for the new road conditions. It will stay there till you change the centering. There is no power to it except when you change the centering with the button.
Ivylog
Guess you missed my previous link:
Hydraulic slides and Generator slide not working. 2001 Signature.
Bill C
On 5/10/2024 at 7:04 PM, Frank Bergamo said:
Yes, they are replaceable. Some are mounted with a band type clamp, similar to a hose clamp. Others are bolted to a mounting plate with small bolts or screws. Once you see what type you have, pretty self explanatory what needs to be done to remove. In addressing the starting and stopping, does the pump motor stop running, or runs but you get no movement? If pump runs with no movement, then check fluid level is full. Hope this helps.
Thanks Frank
Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air
Michael Powell
WOW I just went thru this problem and getting to old to keep doing this but I did after spending Thousands of dollars and no fix...what I have found out are
1 if you pump up the coach level it out then push the stop button and wait 3 to 5 days then you have the leak on one of the rear air lines or bags or leaking Manifold lines...
2. if you leave it in auto mode your aux air pump may not be able to pump enough air to keep up with the leak...
If you have a tag axle which I have it's very different to check the forward air bag line on the passenger side what I did was pump the system up and squirted soap to look for the leak lots of soap then got my phone camera put a light up in there and took pictures of it and that's where the leak was...This all started after I had all 10 air bags replaced...Took it back to the shop several times and was never fixed... This air bag is tough to get to... I cut out a port hole thru the wall just forward of that air bag. This is what fixed my problem been holding air for the past 3 weeks...
Michael Powellyou may email me at mpowell@powellwatson.com
I will share my phone number by email to talk if needed.
AC Recharge
Venturer
Today, 30 hours later, I have 70 and 70 @ 72 degrees. I'm not going to start it for a few days to see is the leak is only at running pressure. Like Bob, I also have lower running pressures when I know the system had to be full.
Hydraulic slides and Generator slide not working. 2001 Signature.
Bill C
Just to close the loop on this request for help.
The problem was a result of my replacing the chassis batteries at the same time.
Let me explain: My chassis batteries were 6 years old and leaking acid so I decided to replace them. I had to drive to a nearby city to get them at NAPA auto parts. It seems that the size/type 31, in high-capacity starting batteries are not so common. My best option/price seemed to be NAPA, and since there is none in the small town I am in, I had to drive about 45 min to get them. Accordingly, to get the core charge back, I removed my old ones and took them with me. I turned off the master cutoff switch for my chassis batteries. The new batteries did not have posts for the battery cables, but instead had threaded posts. NAPA, nor my local auto parts stores did not have what I needed so off to Amazon to order screw on posts. While waiting for the screw on posts I decided to finish my generator project. Long story about that, but when moving to Gen in/out I ran in to the issue of it stopping after a few seconds, sounding like a bad resettable fuse. I went in the back of the coach where the resettable fuse was, as Ivan said it was. I trouble shot this fuse and all was good. While doing this I noticed a clicking sound in the other compartment in the Eng. compartment. It was the battery boost solenoid. Why in the world would this be tripping when trying to move the GEN? I decided, at this point, it could be the fact that my chassis batteries where still not hooked up yet. I decided to wait until they were installed and connected. Low and behold, this solved the GEN slide issue.
Thanks for all the wonderful tips and advice. I hope this summary helps someone else someday.
Regards,
Bill C
TSD Fuel Card
jacwjames
So I finally got a chance to take the rig out for a shake down drive prior to my wife leaving next week for a ~2 month trip. Wanted to check everything and all seems to be working fine.
I decided to try out the TSD card, didn't need much fuel but wanted to make sure it worked. Pretty straight forward as far as using the card and filling the rig.
I got the transaction details, I only pumped 15 gallons, advertised price was $3.429, discount price was $3.081 but that didn't include the fees. So the charge was $47.44 after the transactions fee $0.65, there was also a 10% Program Fee against the Discount $5.23 or $0.53.
So my final price was $3.16/gallon.
The nearest Sam's Club has a posted price of $3.44, so with my 5% rebate on fuel the price would be $3.26.
So Open Roads is a little cheaper but the real savings may be convenience of getting on/off the interstate a little easier, easier access and faster filling.
Still looking at the Mudflap program also, I have it set up on my phone, have to get it set up on my wife's phone, it would be good to have other options.
New Bilstien shocks and used air bags
RBRODDER
My trailing arms had already been replaced prior to our purchasing the coach, so I didn't have that expense in the equation. The Ride Enhancement kit helped the handling of the coach and definitely reduced the porpoising of the front. I can say the the shocks that I replaced were all worn out. I believe that they were the original shocks on the coach. I would say it was worth the money for a better ride. I replaced the front shocks originally and just decided to bite the bullet and do the whole R.E. kit. I did the installation myself and it really wasn't too bad...took me 2 days though..
This is our first coach as well and the worst part for us was the porpoising and the rear was a very solid ride...wife was jot happy, now she enjoys the ride. So, I would definitely say to do the shocks at a minimum. Obviously inspecting the trailing arms is a must...
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
throgmartin
It is time folks. It is time I hang up the tools and retire. Today I closed on a deal and sold Talin RV. Ryan Stubbs is now the proud owner of Talin. The entire staff will be staying on board and they will continue to offer Guardian Plates and other on site RV service. I know he has a lot of great plans for Talin. If you ever have a question about Talin you can reach out to Ryan directly at Ryan@talinrv.com. He will respond to any questions or issues you may have.
A little history. It has been almost 2 decades since I first started in the RV industry. My first venture was starting Stone Vos Awnings in 2006. To this day and under Ingrid's careful eye, Stone Vos is still the gold standard and producing the highest quality awning fabrics in the industry.
After turning Stone Vos over to Ingrid in 2015 I began a new journey which resulted in the birth of Talin RV which was named after my 2 kids, Lindy and Natalia ( Tali ). My focus was on trying to eliminate the slide floor rot that is seen on so many Monaco coaches. It took 2 years to develop the Guardian Plate system and has since become the answer to the dreaded floor rot issues. I admit I am proud of that accomplishment because it has saved coach owners tens of thousands of dollars in repair costs. I lost track of the number of plate systems I have made over the years, but it is in the thousands.
I would be lying if I said I will miss the work because I won’t. Operating a company at my age with the stress and demands is not conducive to ones good health. But what I will miss are all of you. I have met thousands of Monaco and HR owners over the years and have developed many amazing friendships. I feel blessed to have had the loyalty, trust and support of so many of you with Stone Vos and Talin RV.
I have traveled extensively throughout the country attending rally’s, conducting seminars and providing free inspections while meeting so many of you along the way. I put 60,000 miles on my coach just attending rally’s. I can remember the many lonely days traveling for 3 and 4 week stretches all alone going from one rally to another. But it never failed, once I arrived at the rally that loneliness left me because of so many of you who welcomed with open arms. Over 100 seminars and 3,000 Monaco and HR inspections later - trust me when I say I am ready for retirement and a slower pace in life.
One of my favorite rally's has always been the Monaco Gathering. The fun I had working with my dear friend Dave Pratt. Having dinner every night with many of you who attended. Conducting seminars at this event. And of course enjoying my hecklers out in the crowd and that always livened things up. This Monaco group holds a special place in my heart and is filled with many awesome members.
I leave this industry knowing it was a gift from God in that he gave me the opportunity to pursue this career. This was a family business, and I loved the fact that my two kids took the journey with me. They have been amazing advisors over the years. This career also provided me with the opportunity to not only provide technical support and advice but also to meet so many of you. Some I broke bread with. A few I shed tears with over heart-breaking stories that I was told or sad events that I witnessed. Others I simply conversed with and got to know on a personal level sharing stories and laughter.
While I have never been a selfish person, I realize that it is now my time to enjoy life. I will be retiring to a horse and cattle ranch in South Florida. I look forward to getting back to one of my passions, which is farming. Cattle and horses have always been part of my soul. I cannot explain the feeling that comes over me when I lean on a fence and look out over a pasture filled with these animals watching them graze. It has been many years since I had a farm and back then I enjoyed raising my kids around livestock. They too loved the farm life. I have missed that lifestyle. I am also blessed to have an amazing lady by my side as we are both looking forward to retirement and the quiet ranch life together.
I hope my time here has been beneficial to you. I truly hope I was able to help some of you with your coach issues. I also hope that I have had a positive influence in some of your lives. I have always enjoyed assisting and educating other coach owners and always felt it was my responsibility to share my knowledge and technical expertise to those in need. I pray that I helped some of you in some way.
Before signing off I wanted to share a few photos that brought back some great memories. Looking at a few of these I realized what a great feeling it was to stand in front of so many of you and conduct seminars.
May God Bless each and every one of you. May you continue to have many safe, happy and trouble free miles while creating amazing memories along the way. Once again, thank you for your trust, your loyalty, your love and support. I remain grateful for all of you who touched my life and my companies in one way or another. With my heartfelt gratitude and love,
powerpro2000
So glad to hear the issues with M&M have been resolved positively. Happier to know Frank now has a good inventory of switches to help others stranded by Eaton and K'berg. FYI, I noticed Copart has a couple of Roadmaster chassis units coming up for auction. Photos show a full compliment of master and slave switches and I assume CCM's installed. Condition of units will be salvage only. If someone is interested they might want to follow these and see where they end up.
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
sheena154
I knew the day would come when you would hang up the keys and I'm so happy for you but sad that so many of us will lose the benefit of your wisdom and skills. My husband and I have had the pleasure of meeting you a few times at the Monaco gathering and I always was sure to attend your seminars even if I had see them before. You were kind enough to inspect our roof and measure our coach for awnings which we were so grateful for later when we ordered them from Ingrid. I can't think of anyone now still a member of the Monaco group who has your expertise and so many people will miss that and I want to thank you for being so generous of your time and energy when anyone needed advise on a problem. You deserve a quiet life on your farm so enjoy!
Chargerman
Thank you guys. I’m still not clear on a couple things. I get how to activate it but let’s say I set it off center because of a cross wind. Does the steering then always remain in this position until I center the wheel and push the button again? Am I right in thinking once you press the button once it always remains active? I’m thinking this is the case and that’s why folks say it helps maintain control of you were to have a blowout
Smart Wheel Dead
98Windsor32ft
Thanks, guys, for the info. I am wondering if I have a "Smart Wheel" as I do not have any buttons on my steering wheel.
I rechecked under my dash and looked around again for a control box.. I did not find it. My head light wires from the switch disappear into a cable harness that is about 3 inch dia. I think I will cut the cable ties and trace where the wires go. I am also thinking I may have a temporary fix with a relay that might get me through a quickie inspection...
John Flinn
Warning light flash code meanings
JDCrow
Had the Dip sitting a few weeks, not leveled, down in the back
Went to start to get it aired up, and warning light came on, never has before
Did the diagnostic switch, 5 flashes,
I have poured over websites but cannot find what the flashes mean.
Oil pressure was good, there’s coolant.
Does anyone know a link the the flash meanings?
Smart Wheel Dead
Dr4Film
Yes, you do NOT have a Smart Wheel.
TomV48
On 1/30/2024 at 10:03 AM, vito.a said:
Steering stabilizers function poorly on large Monaco diesel coaches. Many time they make the steering worse.
However, the Monaco Watts linkage system gets rave reviews. It can be installed on the front, rear or both.
Venturer30 minutes ago, Chargerman said:
Thank you guys. I’m still not clear on a couple things. I get how to activate it but let’s say I set it off center because of a cross wind. Does the steering then always remain in this position until I center the wheel and push the button again? Am I right in thinking once you press the button once it always remains active? I’m thinking this is the case and that’s why folks say it helps maintain control of you were to have a blowout
It's only active and changing when you push the button. The two opposing springs will attempt to hold the steering in the set position. Yes, when conditions change, you have to reset the spring tensions/position with the button. To be clear, it's always there, however, you determine where it centers as you need with the button which is allowing the opposing springs to reposition to hold where you set it.
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
tmw188Chris that’s great and we will miss you at the Gatherings on the professional level but maybe you’ll come on a social level instead. Enjoy your new stress free retirement and thank you for your hard work in keeping Talin up and running and providing a much needed service.
Todd White
ChargermanGot it. Thank you!!
TSD Fuel Card
tmw188Yep it’s the availability along the highway and the speed of filling as you said. I guess too the program fee is still a no brainer the more gallons you fill. I don’t think Mudflap has truck stops in there program but could be wrong.
Warning light flash code meanings
JDCrowOk we are definitely starving for fuel on start up. Filters first.
Ordered a scan gauge so no worries
Hydraulic slides and Generator slide not working. 2001 Signature.
96 EVOEarly 2000's high end Monaco built coaches..... Ivan is the man!
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
Bill R9 hours ago, georgecederholm said:
although I’m probably due to get the ladder and razor blade to scrape all the stubborn bits off.
Use 0000 steel wool soaked in warm water with Dawn dish soap to get the hard bits off. Won’t scratch the windshield. Follow up clean windshield by wiping down with spray wax to make future cleaning intervals easier.
Transmission won’t shift out of first gear.
RVSSNAKEI put the bus in for new tires today.
went to pick it up and drove off the lot and it wouldn’t shift out of first gear.
I could shut it off and restart put in D and it would show 6 normal right but when I took off it stayed in first gear.
ideas please!
I was only a few blocks from the shop so I took it back for them to look at tomorrow.
I did find a vacuum hose that ran from a chamber on the turbo that was chewed through would that cause that problem.
check trans light did come on when it was stuck in gear.
I am supposed to leave on Wednesday if I can get it working.
help,
Stopping bugs from hitting windshield
96 EVO1 minute ago, Bill R said:
Use 0000 steel wool soaked in warm water with Dawn dish soap to get the hard bits off. Won’t scratch the windshield. Follow up clean windshield by wiping down with spray wax to make future cleaning intervals easier.
Bill, that's what I use before I start a trip!
Never found anything that can clean the windshield as well !
Transmission won’t shift out of first gear.
Dr4FilmTake apart the transmission output speed sensor connector, clean both ends with a good contact cleaner then reconnect. That connector is located at the rear of the transmission. Check the manual for exact location.
You can also do a diagnostics check on your Allison keypad to verify the error code, output speed sensor.
slide out sheer pins keep shearing off
windsorbill06Thank you Jim, unfortunately I don't have that system. Looks like the tracks are similar, but the motor and switch board is completely different.
Bilstein Shock Torque
John CI am changing 10 Bilstein 24-187312 Shocks now, does anyone knows what is the torque? On Bilstein website it has the following for the top nut:
Bilstein Shock Torque
timaz996Always go by the bolt size as stated by Beilstein or any other manufacturer. 83 foot pounds of torque will be more than enough. There’s really not much any sideload or should not be.
Transmission won’t shift out of first gear.
Ivan KThe hose should be for waste gate operation and would hardly effect shifting. You can plug it to get home and get more boost than ever or leave it and lose some for the time being.
Transmission won’t shift out of first gear.
RVSSNAKE5 minutes ago, Ivan K said:
The hose should be for waste gate operation and would hardly effect shifting. You can plug it to get home and get more boost than ever or leave it and lose some for the time being.
Thanks for the idea and suggestion.
30 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:
Take apart the transmission output speed sensor connector, clean both ends with a good contact cleaner then reconnect. That connector is located at the rear of the transmission. Check the manual for exact location.
You can also do a diagnostics check on your Allison keypad to verify the error code, output speed sensor.
The shop is going to run a diagnostic on it tomorrow, but I will let them know about the sensor.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Warning light flash code meanings
JDCrowWell as it turns out in my impatience, I overlooked how to let the code cycle.
Anyway, letting the light completely and cycle gets me 2 codes:
268
451
Both codes deal with fuel pressure (shocker) The 451 deals directly with voltage. I’ve read in the past the when you replace an injection pump, you should replace the suppressor. Well as much monkeying around with my pump lately, I’m not shocked that a suppressor might be the culprit.
Outdoor light near entry door.
TwomedThin Lite 160a. This is your present light a quick Google will find you clear or amber lens.
Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air
dennis.mcdonaughThanks, but I don’t have an air leveling system like that. I have 3 ride height valves, no six pack manifold.
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
WCourandEnjoy your well earned retirement. You will be missed but not forgotten.
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
mmartinhouseGood luck on your next adventure.
Curbside Rear Air Bags Losing Air
Just JimI just returned from a trip to Myrtle Beach and Darlington and every time I stopped and turned off the engine the coach leaned to the passenger side. It had done this occasionally before, but this trip it did it any time the engine was turned off. With the engine running it stayed level and drove fine. So, I'm thinking I'll check the HWH 6 pack valves like Richard suggested. Does that seem like a good place to start on diagnosing? Thanks.
Roadmaster S-Series Suspension Air Spring/Air Bag Replacement
John COn 5/2/2024 at 7:43 AM, zmotorsports said:
Thank you. I appreciate that. Happy to help where and when I can.
@zmotorsportsHi,Mike,
I followed your post almost religiously and it helped me a lot to change my 10 airbags.
I made just one change as following:
I bought one pair of 24 ton jack stands (rear) and one pair of 12 ton jack (for the front), but I could not find jack stand that are long enough to directly in contact with chassis, I can stack up jack st and 10 pieces of 2x10 but I don't feel very safe, so here is what I did, for the front I cut a pair of 6x6 as a jack stands, that turned out to be very strong, on the driver side, there is no space on the chassis that I can put 6x6 there, so I cut above 2 inches from the 6x6 , make it 4x6 on the top, on the bottom it is still 6x6.
for the rear, I use 4x8 because the limited space.
I am doing it very slow, and I am made a decision to change the 10 shocks. now it is the 4th day, the coach is on the 4x8 and 6x6, looks very solid.
Thank you so much your post, without it I won't even know where to start!
Rust inside airbags
John CI am in the process of changing 10 airbags, noticed two airbags has rust inside, also a few airlines has rust to.
I know I need to change the air dryer, how about the airlines with rust in it? am I supposed to change that too? is anything I need to check besides that?
Please advise.
Thank you.
Rust inside airbags
Ivan KWow, getting the system clean is going to be a nightmare unless the moisture came from leveling compressor and did not backfeed into the whole brake system, that would be lucky. Still painful to see though.
Rust inside airbags
John C1 minute ago, Ivan K said:
Wow, getting the system clean is going to be a nightmare unless the moisture came from leveling compressor and did not backfeed into the whole brake system, that would be lucky. Still painful to see though.
Wow! I didn't realize it is that serious!
How do I explain that only two bags has this problem? does that means it rust is only in a certain area? how do I check if the brake system is rusted or not?
Thanks!
Rust inside airbags
Ivan KOnly two bags, I suppose there would be a theoretical situation when only those two bags on same axle end needed aux compressor air to keep level. Or were they already wet when installed. Good thing they seem dry, where did the moisture go... I would probably remove a hose or looked into a valve on a main tank to check and see. Uncharted territory for me.
Rust inside airbags
vito.aJust clean any lines or fittings you're working on and service the dryer.
That's about all you can do.
Rust inside airbags
John CBoth were on the front passenger side, losing all air in a couple of days.
I will follow the airlines tomorrow.
Thank you
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
Scotty HuttoCongratulations my friend! Well deserved! You have been a blessing as a friend and mentor. But don’t think for a minute I’ll stop harassing you! After all, @Steven Pand I know where the REAL MSU is… I mean what is a Sparty anyway?
Rust inside airbags
TomV48WOW. Sitting here in So Cal feeling so smug that that can only happen in a wet climate. Yikes you are here too. Here is what my book says
"Regeneration - The mild backflow of air through the air dryer and out the purge valve that begins
immediately after the purge and lasts normally 10 to 15 seconds. This backflow of air, from the
air system and through the air dryer, removes moisture from the desiccant cartridge and
prepares the air dryer for the next compressor load cycle."We have had the coach for over four years and I just changed our desiccant cartridge last year. Old maintenance records do not tell me if it had ever been done.
My book says every 2 to 3 years, when compressor is changed or if there has been water in the tanks.
Two years ago I found the air/water release valves and never so much as a wisp of moisture. I guess I have been lucky
Rust inside airbags
John C16 minutes ago, vito.a said:
Just clean any lines or fittings you're working on and service the dryer.
That's about all you can do.
How do you clean the airline? Maybe it take less time to just replacing it?
6 minutes ago, TomV48 said:
WOW. Sitting here in So Cal feeling so smug that that can only happen in a wet climate. Yikes you are here too. Here is what my book says
"Regeneration - The mild backflow of air through the air dryer and out the purge valve that begins
immediately after the purge and lasts normally 10 to 15 seconds. This backflow of air, from the
air system and through the air dryer, removes moisture from the desiccant cartridge and
prepares the air dryer for the next compressor load cycle."We have had the coach for over four years and I just changed ours last year. Old maintenance records do not tell me if it had even been done.
My book says every 2 to 3 years, when compressor is changed or if there has been water in the tanks.
Two years ago I found the air/water release valves and never so much as a wisp of moisture. I guess I have been lucky
I already bought a new air dryer. Will replace it Thursday.
Rust inside airbags
TomV48john I missed my point. Is your system blowing off pressure through that system after you come up to full pressure and do you blow off air from the Spit valves once in a while. I think the book says purge water from air tanks drain valves monthly more or less depending upon humidity
Rust inside airbags
John C1 hour ago, TomV48 said:
john I missed my point. Is your system blowing off pressure through that system after you come up to full pressure and do you blow off air from the Spit valves once in a while. I think the book says purge water from air tanks drain valves monthly more or less depending upon humidity
Yes, now I remember I read that on the manual a while ago, that is definitely another to do.
Thank you.
Surprising Announcement - HAPPY RETIREMENT CHRIS THROGMARTIN!!
Tom CherryHey,
I thought you were smarter. WHAT TOOK YOU SO LONG…..GREAT NEWS. I know you will be happy and will live kong and prosper.
BTW…. this comes from a guy that will celebrate the 18th birthday of his GD and her graduation in June. I retired in August, 2006 and was the sole Day Care person for her and her now 21 YO brother. Wouldn’t change a thing. Good luck with your “back to the rots of your soul” or the next phase if your life.
Keep us posted on how your health is improving…
Tom
Bilstein Shock Torque
Tom Cherry8 hours ago, John C said:
I am changing 10 Bilstein
Tom CherryPURE and SIMPLE. No cross winds, center and tap the switch. Cross winds, experiment….oversteer a little…tap the switch. NO JOY…oversteer a bit MORE….no JOY….there are some roads that, with crosswinds, can’t be “fixed”.
NEXT RULE. If you are this much into “improvements”, then out on a Watts Link. David Pratt proved that even a Dynasty, with a TruCenter and then ADDING a Watts, multiplied or improved the effect of the TruCenter.
Same deal on my Camelot. Had the TruCenter on…also Source sway bars and Source shocks… Same stretches of ND interstate…about the same cross winds. Pre Watts’ the oversteer was needed. If you pull a NASCAR trick and add a piece of red or white tape to the top center of the steering wheel, you get a “point” of reference…and you would be surprised how many defrees you oversteer in a cross wind. Pre Watts…maybe 10 - 15 degrees…or MORE. After Watts…half or none…
That the gist….
Tom Cherry13 hours ago, Chargerman said:
Ok . Thanks guys! I’m fine with just wiring direct but help me understand how it works. If you supply power to it momentarily I understand that it will actuate the solenoid thereby engaging the Trucanter but then what happens? How does it stay engaged? How is it released?
FIRST….make sure the Solenoid is working as in testing with an ohm meter on the coil. The Solenoid is NOT supposed to be held ON for more than what the instructions say….so, if you direct wire it….be cognizant of that.
Next, the “trick”, per an installer trained, who was a Lazy Days Sr. Tech, at LD by the Field Rep, and was also one of the designers of the True Center…
install it. Use the Loctite…..but drive it. Don’t torque down the clamp. Just get it TIGHT!
Test it. If it doesn’t “feel” or react or will center on a straight road with minimum crown, then, you have to tweak it.
Then drive it with an assistant. If you need to adjust, then loosen the clamp (scratch a mark where it was) and then have the helper turn (engine off) the wheel wheel slightly to get it “really centered”. Then Tighten….drive and test. Usually takes only one adjustment.
Remember, it is basically a “shock absorber”, not some exotic suspension mechanism that you can adjust by 0.05 degrees increments.
You want if “roughly” but approximately centered….when finished. It doesn’t have a 20 degree range…
That’s it. Remember, the timed OUT OEM relay was to protect the coil and not burn it out. If you put a Clamp On ammeter on one lead and have someone, after you hot wire it, tap it briefly….and you get no reading….odds are…the Solenoid is bad.
BUT….bear in mind, you can adjust or tweak it as above and for 90% of the roads and crosswinds….it’ll work and you don’t really need the electronic adjustment.
A WATTS will astound you as to what it does…..and there is a 10 TIMES impact or feel when you put that on. I knew the difference when I added the TruCenter….unbelievable when I added the Watts.
Smart Wheel Dead
Tom CherryOn 5/12/2024 at 11:25 AM, 98Windsor32ft said:
Where might I find the front run box on my 1998 Windsor, 32ft ?
I have been looking for it for two weeks to fix my headlights always on problem.
John Flinn
Always ON….as in even with the Headlight switch OFF. Or always on when driving….as in Daytime Running Lights….always on all Canadian Bound MH??
There is a Headlight Relay, I SUSPECT. That was how it was usually wired. Look at your prints or go exploring where all the relays are. If the BOSCH relay is welded or the coil is messed up, it will provide a circuit. FIND that relay. Replace it. The COIL is what is activated….by the headlight switch. Now that is one the 2000’s and forward…so, you need to trace the circuit….
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